the slightest of water

It’s 90 F in the shade; humidity also in the 90’s; I’m on a barrier island, coastal Gulf of Mexico, fly fishing the bayside; the calm side; the flat water side; I’m angling on foot in a foot of water; searching the clear sandy shallow flats for Redfish; my dog, Harper has been roasting in the heat in her fur coat; the panting has never stopped since the heat wave hit; after 3 weeks out here I can tell she wants to go home; she is not enjoying our outings like before; chasing shore birds, minnows, dueling with crabs is getting old; the giant cicada like insects that hang-out in the shoreline sea weed and jump on her when she walks by are bothering her; as are the early and late day horseflies; she barks at them; I’ll have to return home soon; I don’t want to leave; I’m good in the heat; when I lived in Montreal and fished with a friend, Ray in the Adirondacks on sweltering July and August days he’d often say, ” I think you’re a Camel, you walk all day and I never see you drink water!”; on this trip I’m constantly hydrating.

redfish

The island I’m on is busy on weekends; there’s a giant Rocket blast-off in a few days; preparation for an eventual trip to Mars; people are in town to witness the launch; the occasional futuristic cyber truck roams main street; it’s also beach season here and locals from the nearby valley/mainland are here for the ocean breeze and to party; they drive up and down the beach all day and night; I hear ground shaking Hispanic Rap, traditional Mexican music with a lot of Horns and the Accordion and regular Country blasting from vehicles; each truck passing competes with the other to be King of Decibels; at night they do donuts in the sand and spin their tires; I’m beach camping; after a night or two of witnessing it all I purchase several garden solar lights and stick them in the sand around my truck camper; I want the night-time riders to see me; I don’t want someone high or drunk in a oversized big-wheeled pick-up to plow into me in the dark; weekdays are quieter; after a few days I drive the beach much further north away from town where there’s less sand traffic; but there’s still some.

long weekend

memorial weekend

Sometimes vehicles get stuck in the sand; I’ll offer to help push or dig-out but I will not tow; I’m 2300 miles away from home; I know no one; my vehicle is my home; it’s my space capsule; my ticket back from Mars to Alberta; I won’t gamble with that; when asked I explain that I don’t tow; they understand and they know someone will eventually come along and pull them out; County police patrol the beach night and day and will call a tow truck if requested.

When beach camping I pay attention to the tides; the moon phase and the wind; the high water mark; these details help me park a safe distance from the surf; I often tuck myself back-up against the dunes to be furthest from the water; the sand tends to be softer there and I have to be careful that I don’ t get stuck; I always exit the same way I drive in; I tell myself, “if I got in, I can get out”; I can also air-down my tires if in a jam; most of the night prowling trucks tend to stay closer to the surf on the hardened sand.

sunrise, weekday quiet

It’s turtle nesting season here; I feel the poor creatures don’t have a chance with the beach traffic and night-time shenanigans; the nearby turtle rescue center volunteers place small florescent flags in the sand to mark the egg laying locations when found; I see them checking the beach at night with flashlights and head lamps; sadly the beach traffic seems oblivious to their markers.

windswept days
often windy even on bay
everyone gets a sun buff

Coyotes often prowl the sand dunes and mud flats where I fish on the bayside; they call out to my dog; she stays close to me but is wary of them; they are persistent, bold and annoying; one day I chase three back onto the flats; I know they’ll come back; they do but keep their distance; eventually they get bored and leave; as they slink away I yell “I fish in grizzly bear country back home and you simply don’t measure-up”; the heat can affect you in funny ways!

pestering coyotes

There are a lot of nasty creatures around here. One day after stepping out of my truck my feet felt like they were burning; they felt on fire; inadvertently I had stepped on a colony of fire ants; my efforts to knock them off were futile; I ended up sprinting to the bay and drowning them; aggressive horse flies also stalk Harper and I in the morning and evening when walking to and from the bay; there are even wild boar; once I’m out on the bay all is good; all is tranquil; no rattlesnakes; no coyotes; no ants; no horseflies; if it’s not windy I pump-up my paddle board and anchor it in the shallows; in a foot or two of water; after a cooling dunk I place Harper on it, and a backpack with our water, food and fishing gear; the board is our floating island where the coyotes won’t bother us and the biting insects are left behind; I search for Redfish within eye-shot of the board and if I see nothing paddle parallel to the coast, anchor and search the new spot; I’m rarely successful angling on the board; I spook a lot of fish that way; I do much better when I leave it and slow walk the shallows.

rare storm
true color

casted my own flies

On a windy day, which there were many, my medium-sized bead chain eye fly strikes my rod tip on the forward cast; the tip folds over then breaks off; I have a back up but I want a back up for my back up!; I know that the new fly shop in town that opened last year unfortunately closed; I call a large outdoor store on the mainland; to my surprise they don’t sell fly rods; I check the internet and the nearest place that supposedly has fly rods is in Corpus Christi three hours north; it’s call Roy’s Bait and Tackle; it sounds like a place where I could probably buy squid and shrimp bait, some 100 lbs test line, a fish gaff hook and an outboard motor but I’m not convinced they sell fly rods. I call to check and I am informed they do; they have all the brands; they open at 9 am; the next morning I hit the road at 6 am; it a cooler day and therefore good travelling weather; it’s also suppose to be cloudy and rainy with the possibility of some severe thunderstorms; on the way up to Corpus I pass through several what seem to be world ending electrical storms and heavy rain; windshield wipers need to be on high speed; I travel at 80 km as any faster and I’m hydroplaning; I find Roy’s; they have a huge fly fishing section; one of the best I’ve ever seen; a Disneyland for a fly angler; I buy a back up for my back up; I can now cast again in the west Texas wind with authority; with no fear; I learned long ago when fly fishing Baja beaches for Roosterfish that you have to be aggressive when casting, even in the wind; opportunity only comes a long every so often in the Salt; and when it does you have to be quick and you have to go for it.

Roy’s Bait and Tackle, fly shop side

At Roy’s I ask several questions about the National park on the north end of he barrier island that I’ve been on; they are extremely helpful and inform me of wade fishing access spots on the bayside; from past research the names sound familiar; the park is pristine; it’s a different scene than the carnival in the south; I camp on the beach and then 2 nights in a basic campground with showers; it’s quiet here; on the bay I find Black Drum on the sand flats every afternoon; big guys; I’ve caught them before; I catch several mid-sized ones but are stumped by the large ones tailing in the afternoon light; I hit them with everything I’ve got; many fly patterns are tried but I can’t seem to “match the hatch”.

driving mud/salt flats close to bay

A few says later I decide to return home; it’s a four day drive; first night-time stop, Lubbock, Tx, and it’s 100F; I grab a KOA cabin with Air Conditioning; the next night it’s Fort Collins, CO. and it’s 46F and Harper’s panting stops. While driving I think about the coyotes; the ants; the horse flies; the heat wave; the west Texas wind; the weekend beach spectacle and traffic; the mission to Mars; the challenging Black Drum; Roy’s Bait and Tackle fly fishing wonderland; and camping for over three weeks on the World’s longest barrier island. I stood in the middle of it all with Harper, fished with my eyes and caught and released some wonderful Redfish in the slightest of water…a great angling adventure.

blowing again
calmer day
hat stuck in mangroves
red spotting calm

sunset

shrimp flies

“Land silent, run shallow”

Fly fishing adventures always inspire thought and more tying; more patterns. A recent saltwater fly fishing trip for Redfish motivated these shrimp creations, size 4 hook, medium-sized bead chain so fly pierces the surface but is still relatively light and not too loud when entering shallow water. I also tie some with small-sized bead chain (lighter) and no bead (no added weight) to land almost silent and to run shallow, in just inches of water…

Slow walking the sand…

Out on the Laguna, cloud reflection, shoreline in distance, middle of photo

Each morning I’d take the beach road north out of town almost to where it ends. I’d park my rental and then make the twenty to thirty minute hike over the sand dunes and then on to the broad tidal zone leading to the Bay/Laguna. The grassy sections of the dunes held sand flies so I passed through quickly. The wide open tidal zone never had biting insects, nor the Laguna. This zone was either flooded or dry depending on the tidal cycle and wind direction. While walking I’d look for scavenging Coyotes and the small local Deer. I always wonder how they survive on the long thin band of sand they call home. I was on a barrier island along the Gulf of Mexico.

walk to the Laguna

coyote on tidal plain

Once at the edge of the Laguna/Bay I’d pass through a thin line of mangroves and then enter the water. The bay in front of me was one big clear sand flat and shallow, just inches to calf-deep for miles. The bottom was a light tan color and firm. Most areas were fairly barren. Some spots had sparse fine shoal grass growth. Much, much further out there were thicker weed beds. Redfish at times showed-up and prowled the sand shallows in search of food: shrimp, crabs, sea worms and other things. It’s a perfect location to look for them. It’s ideal sight-fishing water. It’s why I made the long journey here.

I’d always arrived at the Laguna early. The sun, if it was out, was usually just cresting the high dunes to the east and as I walked out into the shallows it was at my back. I’d wade westward as that’s the direction that I’d see best. On good weather days the visibility improved and expanded as the morning progressed and the sun climbed the sky. Fishing skiffs were always skimming northward in the mornings, sometimes a mile or more away. I’d always hear them before I’d see them. Several minutes later their boat wake would reach me and push up against my legs. Energy travels a long distance in the ultra shallow Laguna. Boat energy, my energy. A reminder to wade cautiously.

typical bay skiff in town

mixed sky, glare

shrimp fly

The sand shallows always looked promising, especially on the calmer, sunny days. On this trip, however, most days were not sunny. The long range weather forecast looked favorable before I booked my trip and left home. However, weather prediction is often imperfect and seaside climate can be unpredictable and ever-changing. Out of fourteen angling days I had three full sun days. Not a great percentage. However, you have the angling day that you wake-up to. Cloud cover, high wind, some occasional light rain, it didn’t matter…I layered-up and waded the shallows and searched for Redfish. I wore waders during inclement conditions. I happily wet-waded on the warm sunny days.

redfish

Sight-fishing in cloud glare and wind is always challenging. At times it was impossible to see beyond two or three rod lengths. In the tough conditions I caught a few but missed and spooked several fish. On many days on this trip and in the past, I left the Laguna late afternoon frustrated with not being able to see well. I knew great fish were coming in on the sand daily but I had little chance of spotting them. But that’s all part of any angling trip. You have to surrender to and accept what you can’t control, hope things change and appreciate it fully when it does. I tried to do that.

wind foam

gear for the day

When the sun did appear it illuminated the sand. Everything became visible. Everything was revealed. It was confirmation as to why I had come here. It was like flicking on the light switch in a dark room. That’s when there was opportunity. That’s when I had a chance to spot a good one. I’d look for shape; a shape that contrasted with the light colored bottom and above all I watched for movement. Movement catches your eye. Movement gives them away. If I managed myself well when the light was good: stayed alert, concentrated intensely, methodically scanned the water, moved slowly (all the shallow water tactics), then I knew I had a chance to spot one. Then it was up to me to make a good cast. In the clear twelve inches of water my fly impression needed to land “near” the Redfish but not “on” it. Too close and a Redfish in skinny water and on high alert, would bolt.

On a good day, when I could see well, I’d always spot Redfish in the sandy shallows. Never many but some. In high glare windy conditions less. Sometimes I’d see none. All fish spotted on this trip were good ones. I’ve heard of great numbers of schooling and tailing redfish on the richer weed thick westside of the bay but I’ve never witnessed that on the eastside sand flats when I’ve waded them in late Fall and Winter time. Maybe it is just the time of year that I come here. There were no surface disturbances to give their location away. When I’d spot them most were on the move; combing the sand.

Days passed quickly on the sand. By mid-afternoon I’d see best wading eastward, back to shore. By late afternoon the sight-fishing day came to an end. I’d hear the skiffs returning from their journey north. Once again, their wake managed to find me. Some had music blasting: usually heavy Rock, sometimes Rap, sometimes bar brawling Country. I guess song selection was dependant on the age of the captain. I never heard Sinatra.

looking back to shore

It was my third visit to the barrier island. I’ve now spent a total of two months sight-fishing the sand flats. It’s still all new to me: Redfish behavior, their environment, the tides… that’s good. It’s a new angling journey. When I review things at the end of each trip I’m reminded how weather always rules the day and how demanding but rewarding ultra-shallow saltwater fly-fishing can be when on foot. The Laguna is as intriguing, spirited and challenging a fly fishing location as anywhere I’ve been. When the sun lights-up the sand it is simply beautiful and mesmerizing out there, and full of possibility.

All redfish were released safely back to the Laguna..

cooler day

sea trout

POSTSCRIPT

Prior to this trip I had read that a Coffee/ Fly Shop (Los Pescadores Coffee and Outfitters) would be opening on the island probably sometime in the second half of 2024. Their website said that although their storefront was not open yet, an angler could order online and have items mailed, or if in town arrange a curbside pick-up. I had tied many flies for my trip but wanted to purchase some regional redfish patterns, so I arranged a pick-up. I got to meet the owner of the business, Daniel, and the future fly shop manager and guide, Alex. Both super guys. They showed me the space they had rented, spoke about their plans for the coffee and fly shop and overall business. They had a great fly selection and offered angling and location tips on the region. Alex has a skiff, guides and catches impressive fish. Whenever I visit an angling destination it’s a bonus to know there is a Fly Shop nearby. I’ll drop by again. Here is the link: https://www.lospescadores.com/